Cape Town - As much as everyone seems to complain about winter, it seems that it’s here and then it’s gone again, as are the traditional seasonal specials that restaurants employ to entice us to come out when we’d rather stay home under the duvet.
Some will run into next month, and that’s technically correct because the spring equinox is only on September 23, even if the weather says otherwise. Others will expire at the end of this month, and although it could well be extended, you really shouldn’t miss the lunch special at La Colombe – three fabulous courses for R285. It’s a great opportunity to visit one of the best restaurants in Cape Town that might not normally be within your budget.
La Colombe was made famous at Constantia Uitsig with chefs like Franck Danger Dangereux and Luke Dale-Roberts, and is now located on Silvermist Mountain Lodge and Wine Estate just over Constantia Nek on the Hout Bay side, and in the very capable hands of Scot Kirton, who is continuing the legacy.
On the day we visited there was a raging storm; the poor man with the umbrella whose job it is to escort you from your car and back was fighting a losing battle. It was warm and toasty inside though, and a window table – which on a clear day would have afforded spectacular views of the mountains – was a dramatic vantage point from which to watch the trees bent sideways by the wind, and gasp whenever the rain lashed against the windows.
The meal was well worth the relatively minor discomfort of sprinting through the puddles in the parking lot. Kirton has retained La Colombe’s French flair, with some Asian influences. Each plate is modern and fresh, and exquisitely presented. I was enchanted by the amuse bouche which is “tinned” tuna. It’s served like a can of fancy cat food but inside are little rolls of yellow fin tuna with ponzu, citrus, ginger, and shiitake mushrooms.
There are two choices for each course of this set lunch menu. For starters they are pan-fried prawns with Asian-style pork belly served with kimchi, sweetcorn, lemon-grass and ginger veloute; and pan-seared quail breast and confit little leg with smoked goat’s cheese. A celeriac and truffle espuma (fancy culinary word for foamy sauce) is poured over it at the table. Both are excellent.
Ditto for the main courses which are sea bass with cauliflower puree, bok choi, endive, cashew nut crumble, mussels, and salsa verde veloute; or the hearty winter-warming braised beef cheeks with carrots, smoked pomme purée (mash, if you prefer), tenderstem broccoli, and a divine bone marrow jus which is also added at the table. The only thing I would change is more bone marrow. But I’m greedy like that.
To finish there is a cheese platter with pickles and preserves, but we both had the guava parfait with yoghurt pudding and lime ice cream. It’s utterly delicious but of everything we had, it’s the weirdest presentation, with strange squiggles on the plate. Do have it though; it’s wonderful.
l La Colombe is open daily for lunch from 12.30pm and dinner from 7pm. To book, call 021 795 0125 or see www.lacolombe.co.za
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