Cape Town - Four star, five star, B&B, guesthouse, boutique hotel and others. The grading system in South Africa is bewildering. Auberge Clermont in the Franschhoek valley is a four-star bed and breakfast, but not in my book. It’s a Goldilocks place – just right in so many ways.
As the name suggests, the style is French Provencal done well: pretty, fresh, tasteful.
Accommodation varies. There is a private, self-catering villa with a large swimming pool fit for a gaggle of friends or family; delightful loft rooms among the oak tree branches; a gorgeous honeymoon suite in a converted wine cellar, with a hand painted ceiling above the huge bed and Louis Quinze furnishings, and garden suites overlooking the vineyards and orchard.
Ancient towering oaks, shrubs, lavender and flowers are in abundance.
I loved the skylight in my garden suite bathroom beneath a tree, but probably should have closed it when the wind blew up as it had a leaf and acorn carpet the next morning.
All the rooms have DSTV, air-conditioning, under floor heating, ceiling fan, heated towel rails, wi fi, Nespresso machine and a fridge with fresh milk and Auberge Clermont wines on an honesty bar system.
Clermont farm is almost 10 hectares with vineyards, plum orchards and an olive grove. The farm supplies grapes – sauvignon blanc, merlot and shiraz – to several estates, but also bottles its own wine in limited quantities and also produces fine, award-winning, olive oil. If you time your visit during the short harvest season you could get handsy and take home your own oil.
Jane Havercroft and Pauline Müller, with a wellspring of tips, suggestions and insider info about Franschhoek, kept me busy.
No sooner had I arrived than I was out again and up to the top of aptly named Uitkyk Street and to Roca Restaurant on Dieu Donne wine estate. Roca boasts that it “has the best views in town and combines good service with good value for money”. No arguments here. It really is a stunning place to begin one’s visit to Franschhoek, summer or winter, as guests are allocated what is called a mirror table: one outside where they start off and should they choose to go inside, their second table awaits.
My meal choice was made for me by eavesdropping a tour guide’s recommendations – pork belly starter – with aubergine puree, caramel chilli and ginger glaze, accompanied by Dieu Donne sauvignon blanc. Excellent, and followed by the chef’s superb take on Eton mess – Madagascan vanilla panacotta, crushed raspberry meringue, lemon curd ice cream and mint jelly.
Back down the hill, I had time for a swim and a ziz, then it was out to eat again, this time at Café Des Arts in the village. Franschhoek is Foodie-Ville with plenty of classy eateries. Cafe Des Arts is more casual, charming, down to earth and vibrant with a very diverse clientele. Auberge Clermont buys yellowtail fish if the restaurant has any to spare so that seemed a good recommendation – and certainly was, served on crushed boiled potatoes with crushed olives and a hint of lemon. I rounded off with the just yum salted caramel cheesecake and Terbodore coffee.
It’s not hard to see why Auberge Clermont’s tennis court is popular, what with all those calories to work off.
And then there are the decadent breakfasts. Shortly after one of those I was back up Uitkyk (Pauline again) to visit Black Elephant Vintners, who buy grapes from Clermont. Pauline assured me that the Franschhoek ladies consider Black Elephant MCC Brut the top tipple in the valley. I concur. Former Bluff boy Kevin Swart and his partners have done good, very good! I sampled Two Dogs a Peacock and a Horse, Timothy White, La Petite Vigne – Deep Red Rosé, Nicholas Red, Amistad Syrah too. These are boldly characteristic, personal and special wines in my opinion. Somewhat like Auberge Clermont.
Enchante!
Call 021 876 3700 or visit http://clermont.co.za
Adrian Rorvik, SundayTribune