One hundred and thirty years ago, Brits, Boers and Zulus enjoyed many of the same relaxing pastimes as tourists to KwaZulu-Natal do today: game-viewing, hiking, fishing and bird-watching. There are, of course, a couple of noteworthy differences. These days, the various groups do not slaughter each other. And today’s visitor to the region probably enjoys a higher standard of accommodation than was available to Churchill, Gandhi, Botha or even the mighty Shaka.
The picture-perfect landscape of eastern KwaZulu-Natal (undulating hills and dramatic Berg) has so much to offer for those who love exploring and collecting memorable experiences. And the following collection of Greenwood Guides places represent a varied cross-section of what is available: a choir school, a circus school, forest canopy tours, white-water rafting, artists, potters and weavers aplenty and, of course, exhilarating battlefield tours. Visitors want for nothing in the Berg when it comes to natural beauty and world-class natural hospitality.
Sewula Gorge Lodge
Off R103, 18km from Estcourt 036 352 2485
The pictures do not exaggerate. This glorious thatched lodge lives beside a rocky river gorge filled with cascading waterfalls and swimming pools. As soon as I arrived I realised I had made a significant mistake. I had not organised to stay the night at Sewula and had missed my opportunity to swim under the waterfall looking at the stars. A group of botanists and ornithologists were far wiser and subsequently had a field day on this national heritage site. The emphasis is on relaxation and seclusion and only one party stays at a time. Staff live away from the lodge and there is absolutely no-one about except you, a very rare treat. It is self-catering, but with any domestic hardship extracted. For here, not only does nature spoil you, but the staff do too, by washing up, servicing the rooms and lighting the log fires. Under the thatched pitch of the main lodge roof are the kitchen, bush-chic sunken sitting room, a giant fireplace, an oversized chess set and much wildly original carpentry. Similarly lovely are the cottages, which have sleeping lofts for children and face the falls. You can walk to an iron-age settlement, battle memorials and great fishing spots. Jacquie is a stellar host and constantly thoughtful. The rock art sites and white-water rafting are within an hour’s drive.
Isandlwana Lodge
Isandlwana 034 271 8301/4/5
Isandlwana Lodge is “the” place to relive Anglo-Zulu War history, and approaching through the dust I could see its namesake hill from miles away. The rocky outcrop was throwing a long shadow across the valley, just as it did on January 22, 1879, when 25 000 Zulus attacked the British soldiers encamped on the hill’s eastern slope. The story of the ensuing battle is fascinating and the lodge eats and sleeps it. Rob Gerrard, an ex-Gordon Highlander (or one of his trusty sidekicks), leads tours that include nearby Rorke’s Drift. Even the lodge itself is designed around a Zulu shield, a thatched, tapered structure that wraps around the hillside and looks across the Isandlwana battlefield. Though steeped in history, it has a refreshingly modern feel. Upstairs, the lounge and bar have leather sofas, ceiling fans and Nguni dining chairs. All 12 rooms are downstairs off a winding, rocky corridor, with very private balconies with incredible views. Having arrived here from Florida and a life of “peanuts and insurance”, Pat Gerrard has taken to hosting as a duck takes to water. Once you’ve waltzed through her to-do list of battlefield tours, walking trails, 300 bird species, cultural tours, horse-riding, swimming and gourmet dining, you’ll have happily spent at least three nights here. Cultural tours are now available visiting local communities.
Isibindi Zulu Lodge
Isibindi Africa Lodges, Rorke’s Drift/Battlefields, Dundee 035 474 1473
Driving up to Isibindi in the early evening, the way ahead was intermittently illuminated by a spectacular thunderstorm. It seemed to be following me. Ignoring the portents, I pressed on to claim my prize, a night at the wonderful (the first line of my notes just reads “Wow!”) Isibindi Zulu Lodge. It’s on a hill in the middle of a 2 000-hectare nature reserve on the Buffalo River, with six secluded chalets looking out over the bush, a modern spin on the traditional Zulu beehive hut. The best view is reserved for the pool, a great place for daytime dozing before an afternoon game drive with lodge managers who are passionate about the bush. The game wasn’t playing ball on our evening outing, but we heard plenty of snuffling in the twilight as we walked back under the stars. For those not barmy about the bush, there are Zulu dancing evenings. Personally, though, the tour of the nearby Isandlwana and Rorke’s Drift battlefields are the highlight. Walking the 50 yards of Rorke’s Drift, having the battle described to me as the rain fell and the local Zulu choir had their weekly rehearsal in the church on the battlefield itself, was a highlight not just of my trip, but will remain one of the most extraordinary experiences of my life. Nature, history and culture… Isibindi has it all.
Ardmore Farm
Champagne Valley, Central Drakensberg 036 468 1314
Just in time for scones and tea on the lawn, the rain clouds parted and I was able to savour the stunning views of the three highest peaks in South Africa: Mafadi (highest at 3 450m), Injisuti Dome (second highest at 3 410m) and the majestic Champagne Castle (third highest at 3 377m). The Drakensberg National Park begins just down the road so bring your hiking boots.
Ardmore is a super-relaxed sort of place. Paul (who looks like Tom Hanks) is always working on something new – a deck or a tree-house for example. He enthusiastically showed me around the Zulu cotton-weaving factory, run by Sue with the help of the local Zulu community, and the new on-site museum celebrating the renowned pottery of the Ardmore Ceramic Art Studio, which was founded here in 1985. Sociable and delicious dinners, eaten by lantern light in the yellowwood dining room, draw on the farm’s organic produce. There is masses to do at Ardmore: hike to waterfalls and mountain peaks; watch the rare bald ibis that makes its home here; fish; canoe; mountain-bike or, if you’re lucky, catch the Drakensberg Boys’ Choir. There are many rock art sites in the area too. The small, thatched rondavels complete with fireplaces are sweet and cosy. Ardmore has a few rough edges, but it’s great fun… and really good value too.
Mawelawela Game & Fishing Lodge
Fodo Farm, Elandslaagte 036 421 1860
George and Herta are a down-to-earth couple whose veins of hospitality run deep. Herta, a bubbly Austrian, moved to South Africa some 30 years ago and married George, who is a beef farmer – his boerewors is delicious. He is also a keen historian and leads tours out to the site of the battle of Elandslaagte. If you stay in the main house, the rooms are very comfortable and the bungalow across the jacaranda-filled garden is perfect for families or groups. A short drive away from the farm itself, you’ll find the thatched hunters’ cottage on 1 500 wild hectares set aside for game. There is a trout dam at the front, into which George has built a waterfall, and there’s a shower and a plunge pool to one side. The shady braai area faces dam-wards and you can watch the eland and kudu come to drink in the evenings and with the Nambiti “big five”, malaria-free conservancy just a short drive away from the lodge, you won’t forget you’re in animal country. Finally a toast to Herta’s cooking, which is wonderful! Bookings are essential.
Dusk to Dawn
Farm Wagendrift, Piet Retief 017 821 0601
I’m ashamed to say that I saw neither the dusk nor the dawn on Johan and Gudrun’s splendid farm. After missing sundown when my three-hour hop from Joburg turned into a five-hour slog, I was sorely tempted by Gudrun’s description of sunrise over the distant Kommetjie-Kop seen from the balcony of my room, Egret’s View. Unfortunately, my alarm clock failed me yet again. I blame the four-poster bed, not to mention the in-room telescope, which had me glued to the startlingly starry night sky far past my bedtime. The real culprit, though, was the seriously deep bath complete with huge candles. Luckily breakfast is served until 10… and the whole pace of Dusk to Dawn is geared towards unwinding overnight, hence the name. It’s the perfect stop-off point if you’re travelling between KwaZulu-Natal and Kruger. And if you decide not to self-cater, breakfast is a healthy spread of smoothies, juices and, of course, fresh coffee – Gudrun is a trained nutritionist. Over dinner, meanwhile, I tasted some prime Dusk to Dawn pork. All the meat and most of the veggies come from the farm. Johan will happily show you around. He is also an expert on the Zulu Wars and the local German community, which settled here over a century and a half ago. Mini-golf and mountain biking are available on site.
Montusi Mountain Lodge
Off D119, Near Alpine Heath, Bergville 036 438 6243
Montusi feels a bit like a hotel, which just happens to be run by your aunt and uncle. You know… you haven’t seen them for years, but no sooner have you stepped from the car than they’ve got your bed sorted (well, your thatched, Conran-style, country cottage complete with fireplace, selected DStv and view) and are fixing you a sundowner on the patio. Ant bought the wattle-strangled Montusi Farm in the early 1990s. Being a man of X-ray vision, he saw through the undergrowth to a lodge perfectly positioned to catch the surrounding view, he saw fields of galloping horses and he saw lakes to fish in. So he did away with the wattles and a new Montusi emerged. Meals are superb but, happily, there are many ways to burn off the calories with limitless and fabulous rakensberg hiking on your doorstep. There’s also horse-riding for all levels of experience, mountain-biking (bring your own bike), swimming in the wonderful pool and fishing. And just 10 minutes down the road is son-in-law Chris’s Adventure Centre, with high-adrenalin activities ranging from zip line to quad biking. Montusi impressed me because it’s a family-run place with plenty of style. Massages are offered by local women as part of a successful community project. - Sunday Tribune