“The buffalo is the only animal who can give you a look which says, ‘You owe me money,’” joked our game ranger, Andrew Rattray. Imitating the animal, he tilted his head, surveyed us through slitted eyes, and wrinkled his nose as though he had suddenly smelt something unpleasant.
“There, that guy is doing it,” he said, pointing to a young bull in the herd grazing nearby.
Never having heard a buffalo described that way, I studied the burly bovine more closely. Sure enough, with beady eye fixed on us, and nostrils flared, he looked like an enforcer for the Mafia.
The other visitors on the vehicle, who had requested the Big Five, dutifully ticked their list.
My wish list was a bit trickier to comply with. When I had been asked what I wanted to see, I said pangolin, aardvark and aardwolf.
Barely 10 minutes passed, when Andrew pointed into the distance, exclaiming “aardwolf”. Of course, we could see nothing. When he got more excited, I was convinced he was a good actor. After all, he is the son of the late David Rattray, the renowned raconteur who often acted out a part to illustrate his point.
We were almost on top of them before we city folk were able to see them clearly – a small family of aardwolf enjoying the late-afternoon sun. Normally these secretive animals are active after dark, but this group had clearly chosen to ignore the rules.
A solitary male cheetah, sneaking up on its prey as the shadows fell, was also a highlight. A bird, however, sounded the alarm and its quarry scattered. The cat looked disappointed. He obviously needed a meal. Life is tough in the bush.
As the sun dipped its head, a chilly wind sprang up and I began to wish I had availed myself of the offer to try out the new winter suit that Kwandwe Private Game Reserve has introduced. When we set off, it had seemed too balmy for that kind of attire. Nobody was going to call me a wimp.
Although you won’t make a fashion statement in what is literally a sleeping bag – open at the feet so you can climb into it and zip it up – who cares? There is also an attached hood, which can be pulled tight with a drawstring, and mittens on a cord – no more frozen hands and fingers.
Interestingly, 22 000ha Kwandwe, which means the Place of the Blue Crane in Xhosa, was not estab-lished with the intention of conserving game, but rather as a means to uplift poverty-stricken families in the area. This is still a high priority for the US owner and his South African partner, and there are many schemes aimed at enriching life for the locals while providing visitors with a chance to spot wildlife.
It is a particularly pretty reserve, with rolling hills – clad in typical Eastern Cape bush – that often have a pale lilac hue in the luminous light. Spekboom flourishes everywhere, and we were told that this humble plant is one of the greatest consumers, for its size, of carbon dioxide. South Africa may one day gain huge carbon credits through this ubiquitous succulent.
The Great Fish River meanders for 30km through this wilderness, and from June to August, flowering aloes make for a spectacular, fiery display.
The Big Five are not the only residents. Kwandwe is home to 7 000 animals, including unusual inhabitants like the black-footed cat. The blue crane – our national bird, which has taken a hammering – and red-billed oxpecker (also on the decline) have a home too, alongside antelope like the Cape grysbok. Kudu thrive; apparently there are 3 000 on the reserve and scientists believe this is their original home from where they migrated to other parts of the country.
We spotted four of the Big Five, but the leopard eluded us.
The land was once used for cattle farming, so it was a formidable task to establish the reserve – 2 000km of farm fencing had to be removed and 115km of game fencing erected.
There are four lodges to choose from. All are leased and run by &Beyond. I decided to spend a night each at two of the lodges.
The first was Ecca Lodge, a member of Relais & Chateaux, where the six air-conditioned suites looked glamorous enough to be featured in a glossy magazine. As the bush was disturbed as little as possible during construction, the camp feels as though it is nestled in the arms of nature.
Sliding glass doors open on to a wrap-around deck. The large beds are low slung, and underfloor heating means a night-time visit to the bathroom is a cosy affair. On the table, amid small pots of succulents and glossy ostrich eggs, interesting snacks fill large glass jars: jelly beans, pretzels and glazed pineapple. They looked so attractive, at first I thought they were a display piece.
The plunge pool on the deck was icy, but I braved it for a few minutes, then watched the dusk fall suddenly and the bush grow silent. Even the birds were too sleepy, or cold, to chirp.
Although the rim pool in Ecca Lodge’s main area is favoured by thirsty elephants, none came for cocktails during our stay.
The kitchen is an interactive one, so guests can see what, and how, meals are being prepared. There were unusual home-made juices, like a blend of winter melon and strawberry, or watermelon, grape and apple.
In the lounge, an enormous metal decorative screen in front of the large fireplace helps the heat radiate to every corner.
Great Fish River Lodge, set on the banks of the river, is more in the vein of a colonial safari lodge. Each comfortable chalet, with expansive deck and rim pool, has a great view on to the cliffs opposite. A small thatched roof above the pool loungers lets guests escape the blazing summer sun.
Adding character is a walkway across a bridge up to the main lodge, which also has wrap-around decks. An enormous fireplace warms the lounge on one side and the dining room on the other, and a modern coffee-making machine, with many flavoured coffees, seems to be the focal point for guests. Meals at both lodges are delectable.
Even Kwandwe’s reception area, where guests check into the reserve, has a story to tell. It was once the fortified frontier home of Arthur Douglas, who was apparently the first person in South Africa to breed ostriches.
Kwandwe’s lodges have won several international awards.
Uplands Lodge, a restored 1905 homestead, which is for the private use of up to six people, was once known as The Republic of Uplands because it was so isolated. This is still the impression today, with miles of open space surrounding it. Discreet electric fencing means guests can enjoy the gardens and swimming pool without fear of walking into a hungry lion.
Finally, Melton Manor, a farmhouse, has rooms leading off a central courtyard and swimming pool. Its handmade chandeliers are particularly unusual.
l For reservations, phone 011 809 4300 or send an e-mail to [email protected] Web: www.andBeyond.com. - Sunday Tribune