I ate at Jan Hendrik’s new Cape Town bistro before it opened — here’s what surprised me most

I recently secured an invitation to the highly anticipated soft launch of Le Bistro de JAN Cape Town at the V&A Waterfront. An invite to an establishment by a Michelin-star chef like Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen is certainly a rare treat.

Known simply as "Jan" to everyone he meets, his approachable and amiable personality is immediately evident.

The new venture is a collaboration between Jan and executive chef Giles Edwards, presenting classic French bistro cuisine infused with a distinctly South African influence.

The invitation to this exclusive, hand-picked event for influencers and guests filled the foodie in me with excitement, though I'll admit, also a touch of anxiety. Having experienced a wide range of dining, from high-end cuisine to rustic comfort food, a nagging imposter syndrome made me question if my palate was truly sophisticated enough for a dish crafted by him.

Nevertheless, this Joburger braved the blustery Mother City winds to visit the recently refurbished InterContinental Table Bay Cape Town. This is the location of the new spot, Le Bistro de JAN, which is poised to be a festive season sensation. 

The opening occurred two days following the launch.

It's worth noting that the hotel itself is undergoing a rebranding and is scheduled to open in 2026.

We were welcomed with a glass of Cap Classique Brut from the well-known Forage and Feast range, which is endorsed by Jan. 

As guests socialised, enjoying appetisers like the chicken liver pâté on toast that I quickly sampled, there was a relaxed mingling before everyone grabbed their seats. I also spotted celebrity presenter Jeannie D and the notably eccentric-chic cookbook author Karen Dudley, who recently launched her book, "Upwards," among the guests.

Glancing around the room, I noticed a doyen of the food industry - an old friend. I approached to greet him and was introduced to his partner. As a wonderful happenstance, we ended up sharing a table and catching up.

The decor immediately impressed, exuding a luxurious sophistication that perfectly aligned with Jan's established brand, even before diving into the evening's tastings.

The chandeliers, honestly, deserved a moment of their own. The exquisite cutlery and the salt and pepper shakers carried Jan’s branding. 

This level of meticulousness is typical. Before the speeches, Jan was observed in the open-plan kitchen, demonstrating intense concentration while meticulously plating the food.

He shared, “A return to Cape Town couldn’t be more fitting. I tasted my first French cognac at this very bar, a moment that transported me into a world of dreams, to places I longed to visit and explore. That spirit of curiosity and connection is exactly what Le Bistrot de JAN is about, and bringing it home feels like completing a circle.”

“We wanted to create a space where detail and indulgence meet, where you eat brilliantly, but also laugh, and allow the performance of dining to unfold around you,” he continued. “There is art in precision and freedom in play. At Le Bistrot de JAN, you can enjoy both.”

The absence of a menu on the table meant the dining experience was essentially a blind tasting, offering no guidance on the dishes.

My meal began with a moist, refreshing tuna salad. This light dish featured butter lettuce, peppers, and onion, and was complemented by quartered eggs, offering a pleasant tanginess.

Another offering was a deeply satisfying warm lentil dish, crowned with a dollop of crème fraîche and fresh chopped greens. The vibrant mint flavour provided an irresistible freshness that made it impossible to stop at just one bite.

Naturally, not every dish will resonate with everyone's palate. For example, the crispy bacon bits and pine nuts served on lettuce leaves with a creamy sauce at the base didn't impress me.

When this delicious chicken and mushroom pie arrived, I was instantly captivated. With its truffled sauce and the most delicate, light pastry, I secretly wished for a second, or even a third, helping. It was truly scrumptious, and only good table manners prevented me from licking the plate clean.

As someone with an insatiable sweet tooth, I was in seventh heaven at the dessert buffet. The spread was exceptional, featuring Edwards' divine and picture-perfect madeleines, a crowd-pleasing malva pudding, and delicate profiteroles. This was complemented by freshly-made custard and a decadent, spoon-licking chocolate mousse.

My sole minor issue was the delay in receiving clean cutlery between courses, a matter I'm certain has now been resolved.

The culinary highlight of the evening was undoubtedly the magnificent cheese spread, presented in a back room atmospherically decorated with Jan's books and an incredible array of relishes. The spread featured an abundance of cherries, a variety of breads and nuts.

A personal standout was the ciabatta loaves, which we tore by hand and dipped into exquisite relishes, including a gorgeous cranberry and fig as well as a marmalade option.

Jan Hendrik's offering certainly lived up to its name. The experience was everything expected, and enjoying it in such wonderful company made the occasion truly satisfying.

∎ You can also catch “JAN Voyage: Italy,” a six-part series where Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen explores the tastes and textures of Italy, on Primedia+.