DALLIANCE
* * *
Appetising, fresh and flavourful food
Victoria Wharf Shopping Centre 7216A, Breakwater Blvd, Cape Town (You’ll find Dalliance at the V&A Waterfront, near the San Marco entrance and close to Adidas, Pringle and Out of Africa)
021 418 1037
Open Monday to Sunday 11am to 11pm
e-mail: info@dalliancerestaurant.co.za
wwwdalliancerestaurant.co.za
GPS: 33° 54’ S/18° 25’ E
The crowd ranges from babes in arms to families, back-packers and super-cool singles. And all, save the infants, enjoy the same menu, writes JOS BAKER.
IN an ideal scenario, once you’ve pin-pointed the right V&A entrance, you are wafted by escalator up to the first floor, and simply swan down the “golden mile” to Dalliance.
Let reality take over. I entered to face a stationary escalator. My escort was half way up it, deaf to my pleas that stuck escalators and walking sticks were incompatible. So OK, with passers-by offering to help, or cheering me on, I made it to the top. Exhausted, I staggered down that gilt mile past those un-priced, unattainable labels (given the current state of the Rand), arriving thankfully at Dalliance.
The tempting tapas offered under the striped entrance awning put me in mind of a Paris oyster bar, a memory reinforced by the surrounding international designer names – and in fact the name itself. I was amazed by how few people know what a dalliance implies. To enlighten those in the dark, or who have not picked up the miniscule Dalliance by-line, “a little love affair”, definitions range from “a playful flirtation, one that might lead to a casual romance” to the more titillating Cambridge Dictionary version: “dalliance: (involvement in) a sexual relationship that is not lasting or serious. Learn more.” Yet the crowd at Dalliance ranges from babes in arms to families, back-packers and super-cool singles. And all, save the infants, enjoy the same menu.
The rapidly expanding Kove collection , not content with its Cape Town expansion, now has a toe-hold in London. The newly-opened Kurobuta, inspired by Japanese izakay (traditional taverns that serve food and drinks) has as chef-proprietor, Scott Hallsworth, who refined his sushi-making skills as head chef at Nobu London and Melbourne. Watch this space. But don’t let this take the shine from Dalliance. In fact Kove Collection owner, Paul Kovensky, states: “We aim to continue refining the existing synergies within our group by now also recommending Dalliance to our hotel patrons, along with our other prestigious restaurants”.
He adds that he conceptualises all his ideas from the customers’ perspective, deriving “great satisfaction from ensuring that they are provided with an experience so incredible they’ll never forget it. And Dalliance is going to be no exception from this rule”.
Stirring words, Mr Kovensky. But, and this is a big but, customers should beware of any publicity describing the new venue as a restaurant. If you’re planning a large party, bear in mind that this is a tapas bar, where a single item can cost R90 – R100. And there is work to be done.
Right now, there are better tapas bars in town. The Dalliance three-star rating was earned by the setting, sandwiched between sea and shoppers; the draw-you-in décor and design and the friendly, efficient Kove-style service.
That said, the simple carte exactly suited my escort’s taste. “My kind of menu”, he said with satisfaction, surveying the three uncomplicated columns: one for food, the next for cocktails and craft beers, and the last for wine.
Disappointingly, the food is predictable rather than lively, enhanced by some specials. I suggest that the chef toss his seasoned salts. Only when the alert manager replaced the baby kingklip I’d ordered with a less powerful version, could I taste the delicacy of the fish.
You’ll find salmon tataki, oysters and peri-peri sardines among seafood offerings, while coniverous meat options include locally sourced beef sliders, pepper-cubed fillet, and classic rosemary-flavoured lamb chops. Vegetarian dishes beat the heat with the signature Dalliance salad of fresh greens, nuts, avo and apple, and for decadence, investigate desserts.
The chocolate marshmallows with mango and peanut butter tempted me to ask if I could bend the rules and pair it with a fresh mango daiquiri.
For according to the press release, “This latest addition to the group’s collection is particularly unique for its innovative ‘pairing’ concept; whereby each culinary item ordered from the menu is served with a choice of either one of four craft beers, or a glass or carafe of specialty wine or champagne, adding to the novelty of this exclusive dining experience”.
That’s a sweeping statement, open to misinterpretation. Wine-pairing is firmly entrenched in local restaurants as an aid to wine sales and to enhance a meal. Where Dalliance is innovative is in that it offers a choice – which sadly did not extend to my favourite Champagne: Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose (at R2,100 a bottle).
The wide-ranging winelist, including both icons and lesser-known labels, is priced according to quantity, and includes tasting glasses ideal for pairing. Ask your well-informed waiter for advice before making your choice – or simply take your tasting glass to the alluring copper bar. And while there, try a refreshing cocktail. How about the Dalliance: a mix of vodka, Chambord, crème de cassis and fresh lime juice?
l Seafood from oyster at R25 to R94 for garlic prawns; meats from spicy, sticky chicken wings at R55 to lamb chops at R100; vegetarian dishes from spaghetti at R40 to salad at R60; and sweets from R50 for coconut rice pudding with a hot mini doughnut, to those choc marshmallows at R70.